Enga Province, sharing a border with Western Province,
features rugged mountains, high valleys and fast flowing rivers. The Engan
people are a hardy race living mostly by subsistence farming. Tribal warfare is
still a common way to settle inter-tribal disputes and ceremonial life
encompasses the giving, receiving and displaying of wealth. Ceremonies are presided over by tribal elders,
distinguished by their two-metre high head-dress displaying the brilliant
colours of plumes from the bird of paradise. Proud warriors painted in bright
ochre dance long into the night to the beat of the Kundu drums. The ceremonial
singsing can last for days during which time many pigs, the greatest symbol of
wealth, will be presented as gifts. Men will slaughter and prepare a feast of
pork, green leaves and vegetables cooked in a deep earth pit over hot coals.
After several hours it is shared amongst the guests with the choice cut being
offered to the guest of honour. Monetary wealth has
come to the Engan landowners since the introduction of coffee plantations and
more importantly the development of the Porgera gold and silver mine, estimated
to be the largest gold mine outside South Africa. Despite the wealth,
development of infrastructure has been slow. The rugged terrain does not lend
itself well to progress. Landslides and broken bridges are common along country
roads and walking is often the only alternative to travel by four wheel
drive.
Trekking
enthusiasts will find their efforts rewarded by the magnificently unspoilt
surroundings. In the west of the province is Laiagam. The Botanical Gardens here
have a collection of over 100 species of native orchids and more than thirteen
species of rhododendrons. Lake Rau, in the middle of Enga, is a crater lake 3000
metres above sea level. It is a days walk from the nearest village of Pumas. A
guide is recommended.
Wabag is the provincial headquarters. It is about four
hours drive by bus or four wheel drive from Mt Hagen. The Wabag Cultural Centre
includes a museum with a fine display of wigs, war shields and masks and an art
gallery. The centre also houses a workshop where young artists are taught the
skills of sand painting, an art form unique to Enga Province. Using ground stone
in natural hues as a medium, the sand painters create landscapes and legendary
figures on a base of wood or plasterboard. The centre is open from 9.00 am to
4.00 pm week days.
There are
several comfortable lodges to stay in and around Wabag including the Kaiap Orchid
Lodge, the Wabag Lodge and the Malya Hostel, a budget priced mountain hideaway. All
lodges will arrange transfers and day tours.
Things to seeWabag: Tribal
fighting is still common in Enga, a rugged mountainous province that has little
development apart from coffee and the huge Porgera Mine in the west. The road
from Mount Hagen to Wabag traverses some spectacular country and crosses Kaugel
Pass at almost 3000m.
Wabag Cultural Centre: Wabag has a large cultural
centre including a museum, art gallery and a workshop where you can watch young
artists making sand paintings, an art form unique to Enga Province. Using ground
stone in natural hues as a medium, the sand painters create landscapes and
legendary figures on a base of wood or plasterboard. Wigs, masks and war shields
from Enga and many parts of the country can be seen in the museum. The centre is
open from 9am–4pm weekdays.
Enga Festival: Held in August, this is a
scaled-down version of the Goroka and Hagen Shows.
Porgera: Porgera is
PNG’s biggest mine and it produces both gold and silver in open-cut and
underground operations. The town has been built to service the mine and there is
a range of accommodation there.
Laiagam: A research station and botanic
gardens with a huge orchid collection are the attraction here. The village is
located a short way off the road to Porgera.
Things to
do
Walking/trekking: Lake Rau, a beautiful crater
lake at nearly 3000m, is reached from Pumas village above Laiagam. Allow two
days and take a guide.
Click here to view accommodation listing in the Enga Province
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