NATIONAL CAPITAL DISTRICT - PORT MORESBY

Port Moresby, the nation's capital and the main entry point for international visitors does not present an immediate picture of an ideal tropical paradise. During the winter months it is dry, dusty and brown. Summer is wet, humid and overgrown. It is a place of stark contrast. Ramshackle huts sit alongside glistening glass towers, dusty plains turn corners to expose a glittering harbour and fearsome frowns turn to welcome smiles. Port Moresby opens the door to the land of the unexpected. The city is located in an area called the National Capital District or NCD. It is on the southern coast of the country and surrounds part of Fairfax Harbour. Port Moresby was named by Captain John Moresby in 1873. The following year a mission station was established at the village of Hanuabada, a traditional Papuan village and home to the Motuan people. During the Second World War, the small town of Port Moresby was transformed into a large military camp, accommodating tens of thousands of troops during the Pacific campaigns. At the end of the war Port Moresby was the only town of any size left standing in Papua New Guinea and was chosen by the governing Australian administration to be the seat of government.

This was the beginning of the urban drift that brought people from almost every tribal group of Papua New Guinea to the city as well as attracting a large population of foreigners. It is now a cosmopolitan city, embracing 20th century technology and development while trying to retain the traditional values of its varied population. It is a blend of old and new. Remnants of the colonial days can still be found in downtown Port Moresby and elements of traditional life have been maintained in the nearby villages. After being destroyed during the war, Hanuabada was rebuilt in the traditional style with its houses perched on stilts over the water. Parliament House exemplifies the striking harmony of modern architecture and traditional design. The National Museum and Art Gallery exhibits cultural features of Papua New Guinea's complex tribal lifestyles. The annual Hiri Moale festival held every September celebrates one of the epic trading voyages between central province villagers and the people in the Gulf of Papua. It is a three day festival of traditional dance, singing and drama. During the festivities, Port Moresby's Ela Beach is lined with stilt houses, canoes and swaying dancers decorated with leis of frangipani and hibiscus.

Equally colourful is the display of native orchids found at the National Botanical Gardens. The collection of over three thousand orchid species, unique to Papua New Guinea, is the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. They flower all year round with peak flowering season for most orchids between December to March. Surrounding the National Capital District is Central Province, a narrow coastal strip which rises to the 4000 metre high Owen Stanley Ranges which form its northern border and divides and isolates the Province from the north. All roads out of Port Moresby lead to delightful adventure. Things to see Access and entry fees Most land, beaches, lagoons, bays and islands in Papua New Guinea, are owned by a village, family or individual. You must ask permission for access and a small entry fee may be payable. Markets: Gordons Market, on Gordon Court Road off the end of Cameron Road, is one of the largest in the country and always bustling. The fresh fruit and vegetables are superb, and they also sell fish and exotic meats. Koki market, on the waterfront near the Koki shops, is the main seafood market and best on Saturdays. Parliament House: Built in the style of a Maprik Haus Tambaran (house of spirits), this impressive building was opened in 1984. It’s an interesting place whether Parliament is sitting or not. A small shop has books and displays of Papua New Guinea’s fantastic butterflies. Open 9am to noon and 1pm to 3pm. National Museum & Art Gallery: Located on Independence Hill close to Parliament House, the museum has excellent displays on fauna, culture, geography, ethnography and history of PNG which include examples of masks and shields, shells, and local foods. A small shady courtyard in front is a pleasant place to sit and has a few live specimens of local wildlife to view. The small bookshop has a limited range of books on pre-history and culture. Open Monday to Friday 8.30am to 3.30pm and 1pm to 5pm on Sundays. Admission by donation. Libraries: The Michael Somare Library (Ph: 326 0900) located at the University of Papua New Guinea, Waigani Campus and the National Library located at Waigani (3256200), Independence Drive, have huge PNG collections. Both are open to the public. National Botanical Gardens (311 2471): This is a haven of greenery with 2km of boardwalk threading beneath a jungle canopy, green lawns, excellent wildlife displays, and a huge collection of orchids. A shadehouse in the shape of the country has plants from all regions. Located just beyond the University of Papua New Guinea on Waigani Drive. Entrance fee. City and harbour views: These are great from Paga Hill behind the Crowne Plaza or from Touaguba Hill above the harbour. A tour of the city should include these lookout points as well as the stilt villages of Hanuabada Poreporena. Moitaka Wildlife Sanctuary: Crocodile feeding is on Friday afternoons from 2pm-4pm when the place is open to the public. There are some huge crocs and it’s an act worth seeing. Other animals and birds include a precocious Raggiana bird of paradise. Located a few kilometres out of town on the Sir Hubert Murray Highway. Admission fee. Bomana War Cemetery (Ph: 328 1536): Thousands of young Australian and Papua New Guinean soldiers are buried in this carefully tended WWII cemetery, a heart-wrenching reminder of the horrific campaigns in the region. Located on the Sogeri Road not far from the Sir Hubert Murray Highway. Hiri Moale Festival (Ph: 324 0829): Celebrating the traditional trading that took place along the coast, this is celebrated mid-September, around Independence Day. Replicas of the lakatois – the giant canoes that were used – pull up on Ela Beach to dancing and singing. Accommodation Listing in the National Capital District